Mountaineering · YDS Class 2-3

Coleman-Deming Glacier

Distance RT
12.0 mi
Gain
6,900 ft
Trailhead
Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead
3,701 ft elevation
Permit Required

A free, self-issue wilderness permit is required at the trailhead for entry into the Mount Baker Wilderness. A Northwest Forest Pass or other valid recreation pass is required for trailhead parking.

Route Description

A subsidiary summit of the Black Buttes on Mount Baker's west shoulder, most commonly climbed as a short detour off the standard Coleman-Deming Glacier route.

Approach

Drive up Glacier Creek Road (Forest Road 39) to the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead. This road has been subject to periodic washout closures that require checking current conditions before a trip. From the trailhead, the Heliotrope Ridge Trail climbs through forest with several stream crossings before reaching the site of the old Kulshan Cabin near treeline. A climbers' trail continues past this point, breaking out of the trees with views of Baker and the Coleman Glacier icefall, and reaching the glacier's edge around 6,000 feet, where a base camp is typically made. From camp, rope up and ascend the Coleman Glacier, trending south beneath the Black Buttes toward the saddle between Colfax Peak and Mount Baker, at roughly 9,000 feet. This traverse crosses below serac zones on Colfax's north side that have produced icefall onto the route in past seasons, so timing the crossing for firm early-morning snow is standard practice. From the Baker-Colfax saddle, leave the main Baker route and climb snow slopes directly to the summit, working around a false summit before reaching the true high point.

Descent

Descend the climbing route. Snow on the summit ridge and upper glacier is often icy into the afternoon on this north-facing approach, so many parties descend earlier rather than waiting for softer snow.

Weather Forecast
⚠️
Air Quality: Moderate · AQI 57
PM2.5: 3.2 μg/m³ · Check conditions before travel
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
77
Moderate
Tomorrow
56
Moderate
Sun, Sep 27
40
Good
Mon, Sep 28
57
Moderate
Tue, Sep 29
57
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
29° / 18°
100%
❄ 14.5"
💨31
Tomorrow
❄️
Snow
22° / 14°
58%
❄ 3.9"
💨27
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
35° / 16°
💨6
Mon, Sep 28
☁️
Overcast
34° / 17°
36%
💨5
Tue, Sep 29
🌨️
Rain
25° / 15°
70%
💧0.74"
💨7
Wed, Sep 30
🌧️
Drizzle
25° / 14°
45%
💧0.02"
💨5
Thu, Oct 1
🌧️
Drizzle
21° / 12°
48%
💧0.08"
💨4
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