Mountaineering · YDS Class 3-4

Southeast Glacier

Distance RT
11.0 mi
Gain
5,699 ft
High Point
8,963 ft
Trailhead
Holden Village (Railroad Creek Trailhead)
3,301 ft elevation
Route Description

The standard route on Copper Peak, a remote Entiat Mountains summit reached from Holden Village via the same Lake Chelan ferry-and-bus access used for nearby Bonanza Peak.

Approach

Access is via Lake Chelan: take the Lady of the Lake passenger ferry from Chelan or Fields Point Landing to Lucerne, then the connecting bus to Holden Village. Camp is available a mile west of the village at Holden Campground. From Holden Campground, hike east to cross Railroad Creek and pick up the Copper Creek Trail above the old mine tailings. Follow this trail, which climbs steeply for its first stretch before paralleling Copper Creek south, for about 3 miles to a flat, good camping area around 5,600 feet (this same trail continues on toward the Copper-Entiat Divide and is also used to access Mount Fernow). From the 5,600-foot camp, leave the trail, cross the creek, and head west into the upper basin drained by Copper Peak's small southeast glacier. Climb the glacier directly toward its apex, where a series of notches breaks the spur ridge on the right (north) side; select the easiest notch that can be reached, since some of the others involve much harder climbing. From the notch, cross a short, sometimes steep snowfield to gain the upper northeast ridge, and scramble mostly Class 3 terrain to the summit, with a possible Class 4 move or two and some exposure along the way.

Descent

Descend the climbing route. Because it is easy to end up at a harder notch than intended on the way up, take note of which notch was used for an easier time finding it again on the way down.

Weather Forecast
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
37
Good
Tomorrow
40
Good
Sun, Sep 27
54
Moderate
Mon, Sep 28
60
Moderate
Tue, Sep 29
55
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
32° / 17°
100%
❄ 4.1"
💨27
Tomorrow
❄️
Snow
27° / 16°
24%
❄ 0.5"
💨23
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
38° / 19°
💨6
Mon, Sep 28
☁️
Overcast
39° / 18°
13%
💨7
Tue, Sep 29
🌨️
Rain
30° / 25°
54%
💧0.54"
💨8
Wed, Sep 30
🌧️
Drizzle
31° / 16°
41%
💧0.01"
💨9
Thu, Oct 1
☁️
Overcast
34° / 15°
27%
💨7
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