Mountaineering · YDS Class 3

South Slopes (Kilpacker Basin)

Distance RT
12.0 mi
Gain
4,400 ft
High Point
14,177 ft
Route Description

The standard route on El Diente ('the tooth'), an unranked but serious San Miguel Mountains summit usually combined with neighboring Mount Wilson.

Approach

From Colorado 145, head to Lizard Head Pass and continue south about 5.2 miles to the signed turn for Forest Road 535, which leads to the Kilpacker Trailhead in the Lizard Head Wilderness. From the trailhead, the Kilpacker Trail climbs into Kilpacker Basin; many parties camp in the basin partway up to split the long day into two. Above the basin, the route leaves the maintained trail and climbs the South Slopes on a mix of talus and loose rock to El Diente's summit at 14,175 feet, with real route-finding required in the upper section.

Descent

Reverse the South Slopes route back into Kilpacker Basin. Many parties traverse instead to neighboring Mount Wilson before descending, which adds serious Class 3-4 terrain and should only be attempted by experienced scramblers in good conditions.

Weather Forecast
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
33° / 27°
47%
❄ 1.3"
💨18
Tomorrow
☁️
Overcast
37° / 26°
8%
💨9
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
46° / 26°
17%
💨10
Mon, Sep 28
🌧️
Drizzle
31° / 24°
92%
💧0.23"
💨6
Tue, Sep 29
🌧️
Drizzle
35° / 25°
81%
💧0.14"
💨5
Wed, Sep 30
🌧️
Drizzle
43° / 23°
51%
💧0.05"
💨9
Thu, Oct 1
☀️
Clear
47° / 21°
10%
💨9
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