Fred Beckey's "Queen of the Cascade River" and one of the range's most photographed summits, climbed by a strenuous approach and a classic, exposed snow knife-edge to the top.
Drive the Cascade River Road about 20 miles from Marblemount to the Eldorado Creek parking area (the last several miles are unpaved and rough). From the parking area, walk back down the road roughly 90-300 feet to find a log or downed-tree crossing of the river, then pick up a climbers' trail on the far side heading upstream (east). The trail climbs through open timber, gaining about 1,500 feet to reach talus slopes below cliffs; continue up and right through boulder fields (do not cross Eldorado Creek) into a large basin around 5,500-5,800 feet. Camps can be found here, or by dropping into Roush Creek Basin (6,100-6,400 feet), or higher still at the Eldorado-Inspiration Glacier site (around 7,500-7,800 feet), which shortens summit day considerably. From high camp, ascend the Eldorado and then Inspiration Glaciers, roped up for crevasse hazard, to where the East Ridge begins. Follow the exposed, knife-edge snow ridge crest — the route's signature feature — to the true summit.
Descend the East Ridge and glaciers by the ascent route. The knife-edge ridge is straightforward on solid snow but becomes more delicate and exposed later in the season or later in the day as it softens, so many parties time the summit push for morning.