Mountaineering · YDS 5.6

West Ridge

Distance RT
8.0 mi
Gain
5,604 ft
High Point
8,816 ft
Trailhead
Boston Basin Trailhead
3,199 ft elevation
Permit Required

An itinerary-based backcountry permit from the National Park Service is required for any overnight stay, including at Boston Basin. Permits cost $10 per person plus a $6 reservation fee; a portion of sites can be reserved in advance on recreation.gov (Boston Basin/Forbidden-Sharkfin is a popular, competitive cross-country zone in peak season), with the remainder available as walk-up permits. All permits for Cascade River Road trailheads, including Boston Basin, must be picked up in person at the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount.

Route Description

One of the "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America," the West Ridge is Forbidden Peak's standard route, combining a snow/ice couloir with several pitches of exposed alpine rock climbing.

Approach

Register at the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount, then drive the Cascade River Road (Forest Road 15) about 21.7 miles to the Boston Basin Trailhead, a pullout just before the Cascade Pass Trailhead at road's end. From the trailhead, follow the old Diamond Mine roadbed for about a mile, then a steep, unmaintained climbers' trail that gains roughly 3,000 feet over the next 2-3 miles into Boston Basin, crossing several streams along the way. High camp is typically made on flats around 6,400 feet below the basin's small glaciers, with alternative bivy sites near the top of the approach couloir. From camp, cross the glacier to a prominent, roughly 500-foot-long couloir at the left edge of Forbidden's south face. Depending on the season this couloir holds continuous snow and ice up to about 50 degrees, or has melted out to a mix of snow and smooth glacier-polished granite; either way it leads to the notch at the base of the West Ridge. From the notch, the climbing begins in earnest: roughly 8 pitches of mid-5th-class granite up the exposed ridge crest, following cracks and ledges with sustained exposure but generally solid rock, to the summit.

Descent

Descend by reversing the West Ridge with a combination of downclimbing and rappelling back to the notch, then downclimb or rappel the entrance couloir. Whichever couloir variant was climbed (the main gully or the "Cat Scratch" gullies), expect the descent to take nearly as long as the ascent, and allow extra time if it is still snow-covered, which makes the rappels more awkward.

Weather Forecast
⚠️
Air Quality: Moderate · AQI 68
PM2.5: 5.9 μg/m³ · Check conditions before travel
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
109
Unhealthy
Tomorrow
52
Moderate
Sun, Sep 27
78
Moderate
Mon, Sep 28
83
Moderate
Tue, Sep 29
74
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
31° / 19°
91%
❄ 4.9"
💨24
Tomorrow
❄️
Snow
25° / 17°
53%
❄ 6.0"
💨19
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
38° / 18°
💨5
Mon, Sep 28
🌧️
Drizzle
38° / 17°
20%
💨6
Tue, Sep 29
🌧️
Showers
28° / 24°
61%
💧0.78"
💨5
Wed, Sep 30
🌧️
Drizzle
31° / 15°
47%
💧0.01"
💨6
Thu, Oct 1
❄️
Snow Showers
27° / 15°
37%
❄ 0.2"
💨5
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