A glaciated volcano climb in the remote Glacier Peak Wilderness, reached by a long forest approach and finished on steep snow and glacier terrain below the summit dome.
Drive to the North Fork Sauk Trailhead at the end of Forest Road 49, south of Darrington off the Mountain Loop Highway. The trailhead has a privy and room for horse trailers; the access road has periodically washed out in past years, so current road status is worth checking before a trip. From the trailhead, the North Fork Sauk River Trail climbs gently through old-growth forest along the river, passing the Mackinaw Shelter around 5.5 miles. Beyond the shelter the trail steepens noticeably, switchbacking up through forest and then alpine meadows to reach the Pacific Crest Trail near White Pass. From the PCT/White Pass junction, follow the Foam Creek Trail on an ascending traverse beneath White Mountain to a col at roughly 6,600 feet, which gives the first views of Glacier Peak. Descend slightly and cross onto low-angle terrain at the edge of the White Chuck Glacier, around 6,700 feet, where numerous flat, rock-sheltered campsites are available for a high camp. From high camp, rope up for glacier travel and head up and across the Suiattle and/or Cool Glacier toward the Disappointment Peak Cleaver, staying right of Disappointment Peak itself. The cleaver leads to the upper mountain, where a final push up moderate glaciated slopes reaches the summit plateau.
Descend the ascent route. Snow that is firm in early morning typically softens by midday, making for easier plunge-stepping and glissading on the lower glacier and meadows, but also increases crevasse and wet-slide hazard later in the day.