Mountaineering · YDS Class 4

East Ridge (Froze-to-Death Plateau)

Distance RT
25.0 mi
Gain
6,299 ft
High Point
12,808 ft
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Route Description

The classic and most-traveled route up Montana's highest peak, climbing to Mystic Lake, crossing the alpine Froze-to-Death Plateau, and finishing on Granite's exposed East Ridge.

Approach

From the West Rosebud (Mystic Lake) Trailhead, a good trail climbs gently along West Rosebud Creek for about three miles to a dam overlook above Mystic Lake, gaining roughly 1,200 feet. The trail continues along the lake's south shore; about half a mile past the lake a junction with the Phantom Creek Trail branches left and switchbacks steeply up through timber to treeline, then climbs open slopes to the Froze-to-Death Plateau at around 11,000 feet. Once on the plateau, travel is cross-country over talus and tundra, heading southwest for several miles toward the Tempest-Granite saddle (Bivouac Saddle), a common high-camp location. Most parties break the approach into two or three days, camping either on the plateau itself or near Froze-to-Death Lake below its northern edge. From the saddle the route parallels the East Ridge on an intermittent climbers' trail through a large talus field known as "the Triangle," then works through sections of exposed Class 3-4 scrambling. The crux is a narrow, corniced snow arete sometimes called the "snowbridge," followed by ledges and short rock steps leading to the summit block.

Descent

Most parties reverse the East Ridge, down-climbing or rappelling the same exposed sections; fixed rappel stations are commonly used on the steepest slabs near the top in place of down-climbing them.

Weather Forecast
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
63
Moderate
Tomorrow
56
Moderate
Tue, Oct 6
51
Moderate
Wed, Oct 7
49
Good
Thu, Oct 8
56
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
☀️
Clear
44° / 26°
💨19
Tomorrow
☁️
Overcast
47° / 28°
2%
💨20
Tue, Oct 6
☁️
Overcast
47° / 29°
1%
💨14
Wed, Oct 7
🌤️
Partly Cloudy
46° / 28°
💨9
Thu, Oct 8
☁️
Overcast
45° / 27°
💨9
Fri, Oct 9
☁️
Overcast
43° / 27°
1%
💨17
Sat, Oct 10
❄️
Snow
34° / 22°
58%
❄ 0.4"
💨13
Trip Reports
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