Mountaineering · AI Sustained snow/ice to 50 degrees, isolated sections to 60 degrees

Liberty Ridge

Distance RT
10.9 mi
Gain
11,483 ft
High Point
14,114 ft
Trailhead
White River Campground / Glacier Basin Trailhead
4,400 ft elevation
Permit Required

Annual Climbing Fee ($82/person for 2026) plus in-person Climbing Permit registration required for any party climbing on a glacier or ascending above 10,000 ft in Mount Rainier National Park. A Wilderness Permit is additionally required for overnight camping (Curtis Ridge, Thumb Rock).

Route Description

A serious, committing snow-and-ice route up the prominent ridge dividing the Liberty and Willis Walls on Rainier's north face, topping out directly at Liberty Cap. Widely regarded as the hardest regularly-climbed route on Mount Rainier and widely recognized as one of the fifty classic alpine climbs of North America. This is effectively the only dedicated route to Liberty Cap itself. Climbers already on the standard DC or Emmons routes sometimes also walk over to Liberty Cap from Columbia Crest along the crater rim as a short side-trip; that variation is not included here as its own route since it has no independently confirmed distance or elevation figures.

Approach

From White River Campground (4,400 ft), hike to Glacier Basin, ascend to St. Elmo Pass, descend and cross the Winthrop Glacier (~7,300 ft), and traverse around lower Curtis Ridge to a camp near 7,400 ft before dropping to the Carbon Glacier to reach the base of the ridge.

Descent

Standard descent is via the Emmons-Winthrop route: traverse the upper Winthrop Glacier beneath Columbia Crest, descend the Emmons Glacier to Camp Schurman, then down the Inter Glacier to Glacier Basin and White River Campground. Carrying full expedition packs up and over the summit is required. An alternate descent via the Disappointment Cleaver route to Paradise is sometimes used.

Weather Forecast
7-Day Forecast
Today
🌫️
Fog
19° / 8°
40%
💨32
Tomorrow
❄️
Snow
16° / -1°
99%
13.4"
💨38
Sat, Sep 26
☁️
Overcast
14° / -4°
23%
💨7
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
18° / 1°
1%
💨6
Mon, Sep 28
🌧️
Showers
9° / 0°
17%
💧0.28"
💨5
Tue, Sep 29
🌧️
Drizzle
16° / 3°
33%
💧0.17"
💨6
Wed, Sep 30
☁️
Overcast
20° / -1°
26%
💨6
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