Mountaineering · YDS Class 4

West Ridge and Hourglass (Lake Como)

Distance RT
14.0 mi
Gain
6,201 ft
High Point
14,039 ft
Route Description

Widely regarded as one of the most dangerous standard routes among Colorado's 14ers, defined by a notorious rockfall-funnel gully known as the Hourglass.

Approach

The approach shares Blanca Peak's Lake Como Road — one of the most difficult 4WD roads in the country — with passenger vehicles parking at its base and most climbers walking or driving as far as conditions and their vehicle allow. From Lake Como, follow the road/trail toward Little Bear's west ridge rather than continuing to the Blanca-Ellingwood saddle. The route's crux is the Hourglass, a narrow, steep gully that funnels rockfall from anyone climbing above and often holds a fixed rope (of unknown and unverified condition) left by previous parties; above the Hourglass, continue to the summit at 14,037 feet.

Descent

Downclimbing the Hourglass is widely considered more dangerous than the ascent. Never climb it with another party above you in the gully, and do not rely on any fixed rope found there without inspecting it yourself.

Weather Forecast
7-Day Forecast
Today
🌧️
Drizzle
36° / 29°
45%
💧0.06"
💨15
Tomorrow
❄️
Snow
34° / 26°
73%
3.1"
💨20
Sat, Sep 26
☁️
Overcast
46° / 23°
18%
💨7
Sun, Sep 27
🌧️
Drizzle
47° / 28°
3%
💨13
Mon, Sep 28
☁️
Overcast
46° / 25°
60%
💨16
Tue, Sep 29
🌧️
Drizzle
34° / 22°
67%
💧0.18"
💨9
Wed, Sep 30
☀️
Clear
44° / 19°
34%
💨9
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