Mountaineering · YDS Class 3-4

Southwest Slope

Distance RT
22.0 mi
Gain
6,001 ft
High Point
9,249 ft
Trailhead
Phelps Creek Trailhead
3,501 ft elevation
Permit Required

A free, self-issue wilderness permit is required at the trailhead for entry into the Glacier Peak Wilderness. No parking fee or recreation pass is currently charged at the Phelps Creek Trailhead itself.

Route Description

The standard route up the highest peak in the Entiat Mountains, a long and convoluted scramble from Leroy Basin that crosses the remnants of the Gloomy Glacier en route to the summit.

Approach

Approach as for Mount Maude and Seven Fingered Jack: drive to the Phelps Creek Trailhead, hike the Phelps Creek Trail about 3.5 miles to the Leroy Creek crossing, then follow the steep climbers' path up to Leroy Basin (6,100 feet) for a high camp. From camp, head north cross-country up heather and scree to a slight saddle in the ridge. Cross the saddle, drop about 100 feet, and traverse north up roughly 400 feet to a small tarn (a possible alternate bivy), then continue north over another slight saddle. From here, descend roughly 700 feet, crossing what remains of the Gloomy Glacier, and climb the far side into another basin. From that basin, ascend a slope that starts as a steep gully and eases with elevation, sometimes holding snow patches, to a saddle in the ridge just south of the summit. From the saddle, head north toward the summit, skirting obstacles on whichever side offers the most reasonable terrain.

Descent

Descend the climbing route. The loose rock underfoot is reportedly worse heading down than up, and the roughly 1,000 feet lost crossing the Gloomy Glacier basin on the way in must be regained on the way out, adding real effort to an already long day.

Weather Forecast
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
37
Good
Tomorrow
40
Good
Sun, Sep 27
54
Moderate
Mon, Sep 28
60
Moderate
Tue, Sep 29
55
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
31° / 18°
100%
❄ 6.5"
💨26
Tomorrow
🌨️
Rain
30° / 15°
24%
💧0.13"
💨21
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
37° / 18°
💨6
Mon, Sep 28
☁️
Overcast
38° / 17°
13%
💨7
Tue, Sep 29
🌨️
Rain
29° / 24°
54%
💧0.54"
💨8
Wed, Sep 30
🌧️
Drizzle
30° / 15°
41%
💧0.01"
💨9
Thu, Oct 1
☁️
Overcast
33° / 14°
27%
💨7
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