The standard route on one of the most photographed peaks in the San Juans — a short but genuine Class 3 scramble through a distinctive rock notch.
From Ouray, take Camp Bird Road (County Road 361) south; it is unpaved from early on and progressively rougher toward Yankee Boy Basin. Low-clearance vehicles should not proceed past about 6.9 miles in; the upper trailhead, reached only by high-clearance 4WD, sits around 12,450–12,460 feet. From the upper trailhead, the route crosses a stable talus slope to a junction with the Blue Lakes Pass Trail; bear right and climb switchbacks to two large rock cairns marking a gate-like passage. Beyond the cairns, ascend a broad, loose gully — keeping to the larger rocks on the left eases the going — to Lavender Col, a saddle on the east ridge at about 13,500 feet. From the col, turn left (west) and climb a couloir that holds snow well into summer some years; at its top, a distinctive V-notch requires a short Class 3 move with real exposure on the left side. Above the notch, easy walking leads to the summit.
Reverse the route through the V-notch and couloir back to Lavender Col, then down the gully to the trailhead. Watch for rockfall in the couloir from parties above, and for ice on the notch in early morning.