Mountaineering · YDS Class 3

South Slope

Gain
6,581 ft
High Point
8,980 ft
Permit Required

No separate NPS trailhead permit process applies to this cross-border approach; confirm current backcountry and border-crossing requirements before the trip. A valid passport or NEXUS card and Canada-valid vehicle insurance are required for the Canadian portion of the drive and approach.

Route Description

The highest of the six Bulger-list peaks in the Chilliwack group, climbed from the same Lake Ouzel camp used for Mount Redoubt via a non-technical (for its remoteness) glacier-and-rock line.

Approach

Approach exactly as for Mount Redoubt: via Canada's Chilliwack River Road and Depot Creek Road, on foot across the border at Monument 65, and up the Depot Creek valley to a camp at Lake Ouzel (about 5,700 feet). From camp, head up toward the gentle col between Silver Lake and Lake Ouzel, then turn sharply (nearly 90 degrees) to climb toward a taller, narrower col on Spickard's south ridge. From there, ascend the South Slope — snow up to about 40 degrees where present, otherwise 3rd-class rock — to the summit.

Descent

Descend the South Slope and the col back to Lake Ouzel camp by the ascent route.

Weather Forecast
⚠️
Air Quality: Moderate · AQI 75
PM2.5: 2.6 μg/m³ · Check conditions before travel
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
156
Unhealthy
Tomorrow
64
Moderate
Sun, Sep 27
85
Moderate
Mon, Sep 28
93
Moderate
Tue, Sep 29
81
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
30° / 18°
82%
❄ 6.4"
💨20
Tomorrow
❄️
Snow
26° / 16°
62%
❄ 0.6"
💨18
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
39° / 14°
💨5
Mon, Sep 28
🌧️
Drizzle
39° / 17°
22%
💨6
Tue, Sep 29
🌨️
Rain
27° / 19°
62%
💧0.67"
💨6
Wed, Sep 30
🌧️
Drizzle
30° / 14°
45%
💧0.01"
💨6
Thu, Oct 1
❄️
Snow Showers
29° / 14°
42%
❄ 0.2"
💨4
Trip Reports
+ File a Report
No reports yet for this route.
Be the first to file a report