The standard route on Mount Hood and the most climbed summit route on any glaciated peak in North America. The South Route via the Hogsback snow ridge and Pearly Gates couloir is a steep, committing snow and ice climb that has a very high accident rate due to its popularity and objective hazards.
From Timberline Lodge (6,000 ft), ascend the Magic Mile ski lift in early season or travel on foot through the ski area to the Palmer Snowfield. Above Palmer, ascend the Hogsback — a narrow snow ridge above the Reid Glacier bergschrund — and then up the Pearly Gates couloir (45-55 degrees) or the Old Chute to the summit.
Park at Timberline Lodge on the south side of Mount Hood. Year-round road access. Timberline Lodge is a historic WPA-era hotel.
Descend the ascent route. The Pearly Gates/Old Chute is dangerous to descend in afternoon when rockfall increases. Early starts (midnight to 2am) are standard.
An alternative to the Pearly Gates that avoids the narrow couloir and rockfall hazard of the standard finish. The Old Chute is a broader snow slope to the left (east) of the Pearly Gates, usually in better condition later in the season when the Gates become icy and rocky.