Park at the Paradise overnight parking lot. Climbers register at the Paradise Ranger Station. Year-round road access; chains may be required in winter.
Permit Required
Annual Climbing Fee ($82/person for 2026) plus in-person Climbing Permit registration required for any party climbing on a glacier or ascending above 10,000 ft in Mount Rainier National Park. A Wilderness Permit ($12/person/night) is additionally required for overnight camping on the route (e.g., Camp Muir area, Ingraham Flats).
The most popular route on Mount Rainier and the most climbed glaciated peak route in North America, the DC takes climbers through the Ingraham Glacier and up the rocky Disappointment Cleaver to the summit crater rim.
Route Description
The most popular and least technical standard route to Rainier's summit, ascending from Paradise via the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir, then across the Cowlitz and Ingraham Glaciers, up the rock rib of the Disappointment Cleaver, and across the summit icecap to the crater rim. Guided by all three park concessioner services; the route is boot-packed and marked with wands/fixed lines for most of the season.
Approach
From Paradise (5,420 ft), follow the Skyline Trail past Panorama Point (6,800 ft, 2.5 mi) and up the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir (10,080 ft), roughly 2.7 mi beyond Panorama Point.
Descent
Descend the climbing route. Late in the season the standard winter line (direct up/down the Ingraham Glacier from Cathedral Gap) is used instead of the Cleaver itself when crevasses on the Cleaver approach become unsafe.
Hazards
high · crevasse
Significant crevasse hazard throughout the Ingraham and upper Emmons glaciers. Route is marked with wands by rangers but changes seasonally. Never travel unroped.
high · rockfall · Seasonal (Jul, Aug)
The Disappointment Cleaver itself generates significant rockfall as snow melts in July and August. Helmets required. Travel through the Cleaver section quickly.
extreme · weather
Rainier generates its own weather and can transition from clear to whiteout in under an hour. Monitor the NWS forecast for the summit zone. Retreat is the right call if weather moves in above Camp Muir.
moderate · avalanche · Seasonal (Mar, Apr, May)
Avalanche hazard exists on the upper Ingraham and around the Cleaver in early season and after new snow events. Check the Northwest Avalanche Center forecast and the NPS climbing rangers' current conditions report.
Gear List
✓Mountaineering boots (double or single)Required
Must accept crampons. Double plastic or modern single boots appropriate for temperatures of -10°C to -20°C on summit.
✓12-point cramponsRequired
Step-in or hybrid binding. Horizontal front points preferred for the mixed terrain on the Cleaver.
✓Ice axeRequired
Standard length (55-65cm) straight-pick mountaineering axe. Leash recommended.
✓40-60m dry-treated rope (per team)Required
Minimum 7.5mm x 40m for 2-person team. Most groups use 8-9mm x 50m. One rope per climbing team.
✓HarnessRequired
Standard alpine or mountaineering harness.
✓Glacier glasses or gogglesRequired
Category 4 lenses required. Glacier travel at altitude requires maximum UV protection.
✓HelmetRequired
Rockfall on the Disappointment Cleaver is the primary objective hazard on this route.
✓Crevasse rescue kit (per team)Required
Includes: 3 snow pickets, 2-3 pulleys, 4-5 prusik loops, 3-4 lockers. Know how to use it before you go.
✓Insulated down or synthetic jacketRequired
Summit temperatures frequently below -15°C with wind. A belay parka is appropriate.
✓Insulated pants or bibsRequired
Softshell or hardshell bibs. Insulated layer for summit and overnight at Camp Muir.
✓Tent (4-season) or camp reservationRequired
Camp Muir has stone shelters (first-come, often crowded) and a climbers cache. A tent is recommended for reliability.
✓Headlamp + extra batteriesRequired
Alpine start (midnight-2am) is standard. Cold drains batteries — keep spares warm.
✓GPS device or downloaded topoRequired
Route-finding in whiteout on the upper Ingraham is disorienting. GPS waypoints for Camp Muir and the Cleaver are essential.
Variations
Ingraham Direct
YDS Class 3
A steeper, more direct variation that bypasses the Disappointment Cleaver by climbing directly up the Ingraham Glacier headwall. Avoids the rockfall hazard of the Cleaver but requires navigation of a more crevassed and steeper glacial section. Often used as a descent route when the Cleaver is heavily tracked.
Weather Forecast
Sat, Sep 26
☁️
Overcast
13° / -4°
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
15° / -1°
Mon, Sep 28
❄️
Snow Showers
8° / -1°
Tue, Sep 29
🌧️
Drizzle
13° / 2°
Wed, Sep 30
☁️
Overcast
20° / -2°