Mountaineering · YDS Class 3

Southwest Ridge

Distance RT
14.0 mi
Gain
6,001 ft
High Point
9,101 ft
Trailhead
Phelps Creek Trailhead
3,501 ft elevation
Permit Required

A free, self-issue wilderness permit is required at the trailhead for entry into the Glacier Peak Wilderness. No parking fee or recreation pass is currently charged at the Phelps Creek Trailhead itself.

Route Description

The standard scramble up Seven Fingered Jack's craggy summit towers, climbed from the same Leroy Basin camp used for neighboring Mount Maude and Mount Fernow.

Approach

Follow the shared Phelps Creek Trailhead approach: drive Forest Roads 62 and 6211 to the trailhead, then hike the Phelps Creek Trail roughly 3 miles to the Leroy Creek crossing and continue up the steep climbers' path into Leroy Basin (about 6,000-6,100 feet) for a high camp. From the basin, two parallel lines lead up toward the peak: a rock gully heading directly northeast, or a gentler ridge just to its right; both converge in a flat area around 6,800 feet where the broad southwest slope begins. An obvious snow couloir at this point offers an easier bypass of loose lower slopes early in the season and leads to a higher point on the southwest ridge; alternatively an easy ramp on climber's left reaches the same ridge. Once on the southwest ridge, ascend talus toward the leftmost (northernmost) point visible from the basin below; the true summit sits to the left of the visible spires or "fingers" that give the peak its name. Steep sections along the way can generally be passed on either side without real difficulty.

Descent

Many parties descend via scree slopes on climber's left of the ascent gully rather than reversing the same line, which is faster but still loose underfoot; either way this is a straightforward reversal in good visibility.

Weather Forecast
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
37
Good
Tomorrow
40
Good
Sun, Sep 27
54
Moderate
Mon, Sep 28
60
Moderate
Tue, Sep 29
55
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
31° / 17°
100%
❄ 5.7"
💨28
Tomorrow
❄️
Snow
27° / 15°
24%
❄ 0.5"
💨23
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
38° / 19°
💨6
Mon, Sep 28
☁️
Overcast
39° / 18°
13%
💨7
Tue, Sep 29
🌨️
Rain
29° / 25°
54%
💧0.54"
💨8
Wed, Sep 30
🌧️
Drizzle
31° / 15°
41%
💧0.01"
💨9
Thu, Oct 1
☁️
Overcast
33° / 14°
27%
💨7
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