Mountaineering · YDS Class 2-3

Squak Glacier

Distance RT
13.4 mi
Gain
6,801 ft
High Point
10,161 ft
Trailhead
Park Butte Trailhead (Schriebers Meadow)
3,360 ft elevation
Permit Required

A free, self-issue wilderness permit is required at the trailhead for entry into the Mount Baker Wilderness. A Northwest Forest Pass or other valid recreation pass is required for trailhead parking.

Route Description

A subsidiary summit on the south side of the Mount Baker massif, climbed as its own objective via the Squak Glacier rather than as a side-trip from Baker's main summit routes.

Approach

Drive to the Park Butte Trailhead (also called the Schriebers Meadow Trailhead) at the end of Forest Road 13, south of Mount Baker. The trailhead has parking, vault toilets, and primitive camping. From the trailhead, cross Sulfur Creek and hike through Schriebers Meadow and forested switchbacks to Morovitz Meadows, about 2 miles in. At the upper meadow, take the right-hand fork toward Baker Pass, then follow a climbers' trail up to the crest of the Railroad Grade moraine. High camp is typically established behind the eastern moraine around 5,500 feet, or by taking a rising traverse east for about 1.25 miles to Crag View, near 6,571 feet, which shortens the following day's climb. From high camp, make a rising traverse of the Squak Glacier aiming for the south ridge of Sherman Peak. The glacier here has moderate slopes with some steeper sections and occasional crevasses that require route-finding, especially later in the season. From the ridge, ascend steep snow directly to the summit.

Descent

Descend the climbing route, or, as an alternative, descend the west ridge to the base of the Roman Wall and continue down the Easton Glacier if a car shuttle or onward travel to Mount Baker's summit is planned.

Weather Forecast
⚠️
Air Quality: Moderate · AQI 57
PM2.5: 3.2 μg/m³ · Check conditions before travel
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
77
Moderate
Tomorrow
56
Moderate
Sun, Sep 27
40
Good
Mon, Sep 28
57
Moderate
Tue, Sep 29
57
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
26° / 15°
100%
❄ 14.5"
💨31
Tomorrow
❄️
Snow
20° / 12°
58%
❄ 3.9"
💨27
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
32° / 13°
💨6
Mon, Sep 28
☁️
Overcast
31° / 13°
36%
💨5
Tue, Sep 29
🌨️
Rain
22° / 12°
70%
💧0.74"
💨7
Wed, Sep 30
❄️
Snow Showers
21° / 11°
45%
❄ 0.1"
💨5
Thu, Oct 1
❄️
Snow Showers
20° / 10°
48%
❄ 0.3"
💨4
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