Mountaineering · YDS Class 3-4

Silver Star Glacier (via Burgundy Col)

High Point
8,875 ft
Trailhead
Silver Star Mountain / Burgundy Col Trailhead
Permit Required

A self-issue wilderness permit and Northwest Forest Pass are the applicable Forest Service requirements; no separate day-use fee is charged at this particular pullout.

Route Description

The most popular route up the largest peak visible from Washington Pass, crossing one of the easternmost glaciers in the Cascades to reach a small, exposed summit block.

Approach

Drive North Cascades Highway (SR-20) to a broad shoulder/pullout about 4 miles east of Washington Pass, near milepost 166. From the pullout, descend a steep, loose embankment to Early Winters Creek and cross on a log, then pick up a well-defined climbers' trail on the far side. The trail climbs steeply through forest, gaining roughly 2,500-3,500 feet, to a flat bench around 6,700 feet often used as a lower camp, then continues up to Burgundy Col. From the col, downclimb steep snow onto the north side of the mountain, then make a traverse below the rock slabs of Burgundy Spire to reach the base of the Silver Star Glacier. Rope up and ascend the glacier, which steepens noticeably near the top, to the col between Silver Star's east (true) and west summits. From the summit col, careful route-finding allows a Class 3 scramble east to the true summit via an easy ramp about 40 feet below the top; missing this line can lead into a short pitch of low 5th-class climbing instead.

Descent

Descend the climbing route. The steep, loose trail down to Early Winters Creek is reported as harder on the knees than the climb itself, especially after an already long day.

Weather Forecast
5-Day Air Quality Forecast
Today
56
Moderate
Tomorrow
40
Good
Sun, Sep 27
41
Good
Mon, Sep 28
61
Moderate
Tue, Sep 29
59
Moderate
PM2.5 wildfire smoke threshold: 35 μg/m³ · Source: CAMS via Open-Meteo
7-Day Forecast
Today
❄️
Snow
34° / 19°
93%
❄ 0.4"
💨22
Tomorrow
🌧️
Drizzle
29° / 15°
18%
❄ 0.1"
💨17
Sun, Sep 27
☁️
Overcast
42° / 20°
💨9
Mon, Sep 28
☁️
Overcast
43° / 20°
6%
💨7
Tue, Sep 29
🌧️
Drizzle
33° / 25°
45%
💧0.14"
💨7
Wed, Sep 30
☁️
Overcast
35° / 17°
29%
💨7
Thu, Oct 1
🌤️
Partly Cloudy
32° / 16°
30%
💨8
Trip Reports
+ File a Report
No reports yet for this route.
Be the first to file a report