Mountaineering · YDS Class 2-3

West Gully Route

Distance RT
13.0 mi
Gain
4,551 ft
High Point
10,876 ft
Route Description

The standard route up Sphinx Mountain, a prominent conglomerate peak in the Madison Range. The route follows a maintained trail to the saddle between Sphinx Mountain and its neighbor, The Helmet, then climbs an obvious gully and ridge system up the peak's west face to the summit.

Approach

From Ennis, drive south on US Highway 287 for about 11 miles to Cameron, then turn east onto Bear Creek Road (Forest Road 327). The road is paved for several miles, turns to gravel, and passes the Bear Creek Ranger Station before reaching Bear Creek Campground and Trailhead, about 8 miles off the highway. From the trailhead, follow Trail 326 along the Trail Fork of Bear Creek for about 2 miles to a junction, then continue on the connecting trail for roughly 3 more miles of gradual switchbacks to the approximately 9,000-foot saddle between The Helmet and Sphinx Mountain. From the saddle, a climber's trail contours across the west face toward a broad, obvious gully. Entering the gully involves a short scramble (or steep snow with moats in early season) that forms the crux of the route. Above the gully, the terrain opens into a broad west ridge and slope that leads the remaining distance to the summit.

Descent

Most parties descend the ascent route. Glissading the main gully is a popular option in early-season snow conditions. Climbers are asked to stay on rocky scree trails or the west ridge rather than the fragile moss and soil bordering the gully, which is easily damaged.

Weather Forecast
7-Day Forecast
Today
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Overcast
47° / 23°
3%
💨17
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44° / 28°
24%
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Tue, Sep 29
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51° / 26°
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Wed, Sep 30
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47° / 25°
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Fri, Oct 2
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Overcast
54° / 29°
3%
💨8
Sat, Oct 3
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Overcast
48° / 29°
5%
💨16
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